Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – hidden treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
